

I am quite the carnivore, though I’ve been raised to eat all kinds of veggies too. Except chye sim, I really hate those. I must have some kind of meat in every meal that I eat, or I won’t feel satisfied. Once upon a time, Ummar took me to Delivege, a place specialising in all things vegan. Mock fish, mock meat, mock sushi. Though I enjoyed it, I don’t think I’ll abandon my love for meat any time soon. A full vegeterian meal? Only when I have absolutely no choice. But I was in Arashiyama, and I’ve got to try that quinessential Buddhist speciality which was the yudofu.
Yudofu Sagano is one of the restaurants that offers this all-tofu kaiseki menu. It was slightly cheaper than the crab kaiseki I had at 3,800 JPY (~SGD40), and no less delicious. The tofu set came with 8 different side dishes ranging from konnyaku jelly to itty bitty fish. Without further ado…
Course #1: Onsen Tamago

Essentially soft-boiled egg Japanese style in light soy sauce. As always, I am in awe at how the yolk’s been cooked. Not too runny and not too hard. Perfect starter to the meal.
Course #2: Konnyaku sashimi

It was printed as ‘Devil’s Tongue Jelly’ on the menu. I’ve never kissed a real devil before, hence I didn’t know what to expect. The friendly lady who served me said it was ‘konnyaku jelly’ and my fears were immediately eased. It was almost transparent and flat, very chewy and crunchy at the same time… like jellyfish. The sweet yellow sauce had an interesting tangy flavour to it.
Course #3: Goma tofu

Goma, or sesame tofu was my favourite of the lot. This tiny little square of goodness was not like the normal tofu. It was slightly dense, somewhat chewy and packed with sesame goodness. I was too shy to ask for another piece.
Course #4: Raw Wheat Gluten

Raw Wheat Gluten also known as seitan in Japanese (I had to stifle my giggle at this, because it sounds like what we’d call the devil in Malay) tastes like meat. I had absolutely no idea what it was till I asked my best friend, Google. Turns out, the gluten is indeed used as a meat substitute. The texture was like mince beef but slightly chewier and sweet.
Course #5: Fried tofu mixed with vegetables

More like tofu mixed with spices, it was delicious but my least favourite of the lot. I have a tiny dislike for fried tofu, unless it’s smelly tofu with yummy sauce or the Indonesian tahu telur. This tofu had tiny bits of veggies in it. I took a little bit longer to finish this one.
Course #6: Gori boiled with soy sauce

These tiny little fish reminded me of anchovies, tasted like anchovies. There was nothing special about them, just a good accompaniment to the tofu dish.
Star of the meal: Yudofu


Yudofu translates to ‘hot water tofu’. It’s tofu boiled in a hot pot with a piece of konbu and some dashi added for a hint of flavour. The tofu is left to boil for 15 minutes, and eaten with spring onions and shoyu. The tofu wasn’t like any of the store bought varieties I was used to. Each tofu was freshly made, silky smooth and had a clean taste. I took my time with the six pieces of tofu, and by the time I was done, I was stuffed. Before today, I would have never imagined being satiated by just tofu.
Course #8: Tempura Vegetables
Because I was such a pig, I forgot to take a picture of the tempura variety. It consisted of egg plant, sweet potatoes (my least favourite veggie) and sweet Japanese ginger. They were coated very lightly in batter but were crispy and not greasy at all. Yum.
Course #9: Chilled Silken Tofu Pudding

I was hoping for the dessert not to be ice cream because I was already stuffed. Imagine my relief when this little plate of goodness was presented before me. The tofu pudding was chilled, sweet, smooth and super duper yummy. The berry sauce topping was perfect too. Again, I was too shy and too full to ask for one more.
I’ve never had so much tofu in one sitting, and I must say I was totally impressed. What I experienced was a simple, lovingly prepared and a delicious shojin ryori, overlooking a pretty bamboo garden. Still, even though I enjoyed every bite of the meal, I won’t be giving up my carnivore status any time soon.
Yudofu Sagano
45 Sagatenryuji Susukinobabacho, Ukyo-ku, Kyoto,
Kyoto Prefecture 616-8385, Japan
Opening Hours: 1100 – 1900
Tip: It isn’t very easy to find, as the restaurant is kinda blocked by a row of statues. My best bet was Google Map, and/or ask a local where ‘Sagano’ is. They’ll point you to the right direction. I literally circled the restaurant TWICE before figuring it out.