It was another cold and wet morning in Bursa as we set off for the Grand Mosque. I wondered how ‘grand’ was the mosque, and was it going to take my breath away like the Blue Mosque did the day before. The Grand Mosque was our tour guide, Mustafa’s favourite mosque because it features one of the greatest examples of Islamic calligraphy in the world. Written by the famous Ottoman calligraphers of that period, the calligraphy was featured on walls and columns, even on large and small plates around the interior of the mosque.
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The Ulu Camii also features a şadırvan, a fountain where worshipers could perform ablution ritual before prayers. How often do you see a fountain in the middle of the mosque?
The high glass dome over the fountain captures the natural light during the day, casting a soft light, playing an important role in illuminating the interior of the mosque. Coupled with the rain softly falling outside and the serenity of the mosque, I felt peaceful. The mosques we’ve been to so far in Turkey are far more magnificent than the ones we have back home, and held so much history. We were given some time to walk around the mosque to explore, since it was just us in there and it wasn’t prayer time. For that, I was grateful to get some quiet and peace of mind to sneak some prayers to the Almighty.
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Alas, we had to leave the peace and tranquility of the mosque and back out into the cold, wet weather outside. Just a stone throw away from the Grand Mosque was the Bursa’s Silk Market. Bursa was, a long time ago, famous for its silk. The Koza Han, built in 1451 was once the centre of the silk trade.
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The 564-year-old building was home to many shops selling silk shawls, scarves, fabrics and the likes of it. In the centre of the han was a mini mosque. I didn’t know this at that time, only found out when my friend Abhi (do check out his blog, this dude’s travelling a hell lot, and his blog is awesome!) went to the same place as I did and said it was a mosque. Aha, we learn something new from one another every day.
It was winter time when we visited Koza Han in December, hence it was calm and quiet, with not many tourists around. Everywhere you turn, there’ll be a little shop selling their silk wares. Be careful when you are buying though, as not all the silk scarves are real, and/or made in Turkey. We were brought to a shop where the shopkeeper explained how to differentiate shawls that were made of pure silk, a combination of both silk and cotton and those that were just pure cotton. There was one shawl that caught my attention, alas, it was made of pure silk and handmade in Bursa hence it cost an arm and a leg. While the women were busy picking out scarves and shawls to buy as gifts, I picked another one that caught my eye. A really pretty and simple pure silk scarf made in Bursa that didn’t cost me an arm and a leg like the other one, but still pretty expensive. At least I had a scarf to cover my hair when I enter mosques instead of depending on my hoodie.
Here’s a tip: When in Turkey, ladies, bring a scarf with you.
Men, be prepared to wait a hell of a long time for your women to be done shopping for scarves. In the mean time, take a seat outside the shops, or at any of the seats in the garden on the ground floor and enjoy a cup, or two, or ten of Turkish tea or coffee. Rumour has it that if you’re lucky, someone might read your fortune from the leftover coffee grounds in your cup. Didn’t managed to get my fortune read, but let me know if you are ever in Koza Han and got your fortunes read.
