The hostel I stayed for 3 nights in Kyoto was located literally a stone throw away from the Central Business District. That meant tall buildings, main roads, cars and renowned banks lining the street. Turning away from the hustle and bustle of the city I could associate with back home, I walked towards Gion, the famous geisha district of Kyoto. The walk was long, but I loved what I saw.
The city was a mixture of old and new. Walking through the alleys, I encountered a really old-school convenience store and bookshop, and when I turned into the main road, I saw the swanky Takashimaya and large, branded stores. I made a u-turn back into the alleys. I preferred the old Kyoto charm than the busy city atmosphere I was so used to.
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The Kamo-gawa separates the CBD from the Gion district and is arguably the most famous river in the whole of Kyoto. While it doesn’t look as significant as it would be in spring when all the blossom trees are in full bloom, it makes a good dating spot. Unfortunately, I didn’t have a bicycle with me or I would have loved to ride down the river and take in the sights.
Riverside restaurants nearby offers a beautiful view of the river, which I didn’t get to experience first hand, but I would imagine one would be paying more for the view than the food itself. I shall be contented with what the street has to offer, considering my very limited budget. In the evening, the Kamo-gawa makes an even more romantic spot to chill at, with the lamps lighting up the path.
Turning into Hanami-koji Street from the main road, I’ve stepped into a whole different world altogether. Built as a district to cater to the needs of visitors to the Yasaka Shrine during the Middle Ages, it has developed into the most exclusive, and one of the most well-known Geisha districts in Japan.
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Traditional Japanese shophouses called machiya lined the streets and some of which were restaurants and ochaya (Japanese tea house). There was something about Japanese restaurants that seemed prim and proper on the outside and a whole different kind of wild once you gathered enough courage to slide open the door and cross the threshold. Tourists, armed with their cameras were everywhere along this street, hoping to catch a glimpse of a Geisha. What I’ve noticed was, where there was a whole mob of people with the cameras up, there’d be a Geisha.
I came to Gion with the intention to soak in the atmosphere of the place, and hopefully to see a geisha up close. Lucky for me, I did! I was standing right in front of the door to the machiya she was visiting, trying to decipher a map and when I looked up, there she was. We had a brief eye contact and she smiled at me before disappearing into the machiya. I was still too shell shocked to smile back or to register what I’ve just seen. The stranger next to me went, “Why didn’t you take a picture? You had your phone in your hands!” Sorry mister, I’m not as jakun (read: mountain tortoise) as the rest of you are to take a photographic evidence to show the world that I’ve seen a Geisha. I’ve seen one, right in front of me with my own two eyes and that’s enough for me.
Getting bored of the Geisha-chasing crowd, I wandered away from the main street of Gion and into the streets less trodden. The architecture blew my mind away. Occasionally, I’d see an oba-san in a kimono shuffling to her house, or kids kicking a ball or playing their game consoles on the streets. Later, I walked past a man in a suit flirting with a pretty woman in a kimono while she was watering the plants. I couldn’t understand a word they said, but from the way the man gazed at the woman, and her coy smile, I knew what was happening.
Admiring the machiya and local houses, watching the slow-paced lifestyles of the locals made me feel like this wasn’t 2014. Such calm is hard to find in a city as developed as Japan. I was glad Kyoto retained its old-school charm. People I met along the streets were friendly, and I wished I took up Japanese back in school instead of the brief stint I had with Korean. I would have loved to strike a conversation with them, one that doesn’t involve asking if they wanted beef, chicken or vegetarian… or woulld they like sugar and milk with their coffee and tea.
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